A place called Zhaji

Sometimes you find a really special place, really out of the way and off the beaten track. Thanks to some FCCSD friends, we were told about Zhaji, a farming village in the southwestern part of Anhui province. It was about a three hour frive from ChaoHu (and about two hours north of Huangshan). It was a pretty drive, once we passed through the snarl of, yes, construction in Wuhu, parts of which are unrecognizable since our brief stay in 2001. The countryside gave way to slightly mountainous terrain, and then a few turns later, small winding roads into 500 year old villages. This area of Anhui is known for its architecture...high white walls, unique pitched roofs, and black tiles and stone work. As we drove through villages you could see this very old architecture. This part of Anhui is overwhelmingly rural, with lots of tea, mulberry, rice and garden crops being produced. And for every small car or motorcycle was a water buffalo or a hand pulled cart.

It rained most of our trip, and when we made our way into the village, Hai Ying and Chen Jun, who had insisted on going with us to see to our safe passage, were probably a little aghast.We found ourselves at the end of a muddy, dead end road, with loads of curious onlookers. Julien, the inn's owner and occupant, met us here and helped us drag our luggage through the village to his 500 year olf , ming-era courtyard home, through small hutongs and stonepaved alleys, past high white walls and over the bridge that runs across the stream that meanders through the village of Zhaji. Women were down below washing clothes, washing vegetables, etc. I will have to take some time to really write about this place and do it some poetic justice, but we did feel as if we were being transported into another world. I think Hai ying and Chen Jun were amazed, amazed by his house, restored from a pile of timber and rubble, into a clean-lined, white and wood space of simplicity, antiquity, and utter calm and beauty. Everything in the house was from the village, almost without exception...the carved wooden doors, the lattice window panes, the rough hewn beams that supported the building, loads of antique furniture, chairs and tables, etc. It was amazing. Julien has turned out to be one of my new China heroes. He splits his time between his home and wife in Nanjing and the rest of the time running his place. He has created something totally unique in all of China. He does not know of anyone else who has done such a thing.

He has two rooms upstairs, and we were the sole occupants. The girls had a large room with two double beds, and Ian and I had a smaller room tucked under the rafters. It rained the first day and a half, so he lit a fire, and we enjoyed simple SIMPLE Chinese food at his big wooden table, drinking and eating and then hanging out by the fire. We then took a walk through the village...to the calligrapher's shop where he makes his own brushes, to an old clan house that is now a simple museum...to a friend who has his own small museum filled with 500 year old antiques-porcelain, wood, carvings etc. Then we headed out into the countryside, down dirt paths, through paddy, past old cemeteries and loads of tiny plots of people working their land, all the while these amazing vistas of small clusters of these courtyard homes, stretching along the riverbank. Can you tell? I cannot do this justice. It began to rain, and Mae and Zoe ran with abandon...getting horribly muddy and wet and enjoying every minute. The next morning we did much of the same, taking a stroll through the main town and then hiking a couple of miles or so (Yes, Mae did it too) up into the hills to see an old pagoda. More wonderful meals back at the house, with the Ayi (auntie) overseeing the running of the place...drinks by the fire, the girls coloring and playing games....a true slice of heaven!!

Yesterday we awoke to sunny skies, and we did another long swing through the village, taking photos and watching the village kind of come to life with the nice weather. I could make a list of things we saw, but I think I will wait until I can post photos. One other highlight is that Zoe has discovered real Chinese food, picking off plates with her chopsticks like a pro, trying everything, and having discovered a love of cooked greens, steamed buns, pork, and fried bread!

One little comment about Julien. He studied Chinese arts and ethnic culture in Aix en Provence (small world) and has been in China on and off for many years. He is fluent in Chinese. His goal in restoring this home was to preserve a piece of China that is disappearing, although fortunately not at the rapid pace of the cities. This is still very much a working village. He was very excited to have to daughters of China visiting Zhaji, and he took great efforts to engage them in our walks, in our meals etc. He wants, for his own future child and for others, to make a connection with China that is not easily experienced in a big city, and his heart and motivation comes from much the same place as an adoptive parent wanting that for their child. The combination was great. Several parents have asked if they thought this would be a good experience for children, a visit to this village, to which I can only give a resounding YES!

Yesterday afternoon we headed to Huanghans city, after an INCREDIBLE drive through the countryside. We toured a bit in the old city of HuanghShan, had an INCREDIBLE meal at a very cool restaurant, and caught our train to Nanchang that night. Zoe and Mae LOVED the train!!!!! And are looking forward to it again in a couple of days.

Need I say that Nanchang has changed a lot. Across the river there was nothing a few years ago...now it sprouts high rise towers...cranes and construction everywhere........Our guide Maggie met us at the station, and we will be on our way to WalMart soon to stock up on supplies, buy Mae some socks, and then go and visit the famous ant statue at the Lakeview (shades of 2004!), then a drive around Nanchang in the afternoon.

Can you tell we are having fun? Everyone happy, healthy, relaxed, and every day brings yet another great adventure. It doesn't get any better than this.

Tomorrow....NINGDU. And what an adventure that will surely be! Will post when we can!